Lechtaler Alps (1997)

In 1997 we (Walter, Jan) headed for the western part of the Lechtaler Alps. In the second week of August, we started in St Anton am Arlberg (ca 1286m), which we reached easily after 10 hours traveling by train. We found a room in Haus Kandahar (which is just above the crossing of the train track), along the old route to Lech (direction Moos). To our surprise we were the only visitors there that stayed the night. Indeed, in whole St Anton there were very few tourists at that moment.. It was a bad summer: it had rained all weeks! However, things changed: with us the sun had returned.
For me (Jan) this tour was also a return to the Lechquelle Gebirge that I visited years ago (20!) in 1977.

A paradisaical valley found!

• Stuttgarter Ht (2305m), am Krabachjoch: The bus to Lech brought us to St Christoph (1771m) at the Arlberg Paß (1793m), Ranz, the Flexen-Paß (1774m) and finally to Zürs (1776m). In winter this is a busy holiday resort, in summer only two hotels provide rooms. It is a ghosttown. All cars are passing by.
  We left the village along the church at the east side by the A.-Endress Weg. We passed Jausenstation Trittalpe (1944m) (closed) on an easy way in the sun: at that part still a road, but soon, after crossing the brook, the real path started. The Stuttgarter Htt was a meeting point for people from Lech, Zürs, Steeg and from the Valluga area. After arranging a bed in the Lager and sitting in the sun, we made a quick walk without a bagpack to the Rauhekopf Scharte (2520m), to see where the Lech people came from and to look to the east along the complete ridge to the north walls of the Parseier Spitze.
  That evening we shared the best table (that with the Edelweiß) with people from Bayern and from the Frankfurt area. From them we learned what a "Maß" meant as measure for beer: a whole liter! The night was terrible with three Italians who were snoring the whole night. [Walking time: 1.40h]
• Ulmer Htt (2279m): via the Boschweg over the Tritt Scharte (2580m).
  It was a beautiful morning. We left at a quarter to eight. The sun was shining but along the Boschweg we were walking in the shadow. It was very silent. Looking to the northwest we had a nice view to the Braunarl Spitze near Lech. The path was good but this may change easily when it becomes wet. At the end we had to step on the snow and ice of the Pazüelferner. To my surprise was the Tritt Scharte at the left and not at the obvious lowest point of the ridge (that was straight to the south). So halfway the Ferner (nice when there is some fog) we turned left, reached the steep final part of the Scharte and climbed the last few steps upwarts (there is a permanent rope that may offer some help). At the other side we had a nice view to the Kaltenberg, to the Ferwall, and behind that to the Silvretta, etc. The descend was by the Valfagehrkar. And, yes, we were the first visitors that day of the Ulmer Htt! We had a very quiet afternoon, sitting in the sun, reading some books, looking over the mountains and in the end: playing ping-pong (table tennis). [Walking time: 3.20h]
• Kaiserjochhs (2310m): via Valfagehr Joch and Matun Joch (2543m both) and the upper way above Kapall, first to the Leutkircher Htt (2252m) am Winterjöchl and finally along the Stanskogel to the hut.
  There was fog and it was chilly. Also the path to the Valfagehr Joch was difficult to find. Sometimes we found a mark somewhere in the snow, or somehere between a large part with stones that we had to cross. Each time we slipped away. At the Joch we marked the path again to the Matun Joch. This is easily missed in the fog: a few steps to south-east and than to the east! Here other Jochs are inviting for making a wrong decision. The weather improved a bit so we could check. The next way to the point just above Kapall was by an easy path. Here we continued the upper path on which you will find several parts that are saved with ropes. On this part your velocity is reduced, but you will find no serious problems. On rainy days, however, one can better take the lower path.
  At the Leutkircher Htt we took some drinks and had some rest. A nice hut, but we decided to continue the last easy part to the Kaiserjoch Hs. This is just a (hot) grass walk. Finally we could see this small hut below us. In the evening the hut became overcrowded with people. They slept everywhere, even above the staircases, in front of the toilets, etc. But it was cosy and the hut-boss made music. [Walking time: 3.30h+1.36h]
• Ansbacher Htt (2376m): via Kridlonscharte (2365m), Hintersee Joch (2484m), Theodor Haas Weg, Alperschon Joch (2301m), Flarsch Joch (2484m).
  This day: to the Simms Htt and the next day to the Ansbacher Htt or directly to the Ansbacher? We had not decided yet where to go to, but the routes share the first part to the 2nd Joch, the Hintersee Joch.
  The path to the Kridlonscharte is easy (but stay on the path ...). Some minutes after the Scharte a few steps require some attention where to put your feet when your belly is just against the wall. There is somewhere a little iron grip for one hand, but it depends on your feet (as always). Just below the Hintersee Joch we chose for the Ansbacher Htt. When the next day would be nice again, we would go the Simms Htt. Otherwise we would descend to Pettneu for starting some days in the Ferwall.
  It was a steep ascend to the Joch. But we had some shadow. At the other side it went downwards to the Vordersee, where two were trying to swim (O, it's cold ...). Just near the See the real Theodor Haas Weg starts. This year it was very good marked and all parts were saved by ropes. It was a nice and interesting part, but very hot in the sun. At the Alperschon Joch we took time for a long drink. The next part was easy. The arrival at the Ansbacher Htt was a surprise: just after a corner you bumps against a door. Around the hut a huge (march) hare was jumping (is that because of the near 'Haas'-weg?). [Walking time: 4.10h]
• Frederic Simms Htt (2004m): via Flarsch Joch [2484m), Schnellenpleis, Stierlahnzugjoch [2596m], Kälberlahnzugjoch [2585m] and a long descend.
  The weather was not as beautiful as yesterday, and in the west it was quite dark. However, in the hut they were quite sure that the weather should improve. That was enough to decide to go the Simms Htt. The first part was again over the Flarsch Joch. Than we took the path to the Feuer Sp, that belongs to a ridge with red stripes in it. To the north we could see the Allgäuer Alps, where it was very cloudy ... It was a steep ascent to the Stierlahnzugjoch, the last part you needed your hands too. Above, to the west it had darkened seriously above the Arlberg Paß. We walked very fast to the Kälberlahnzugjoch. Actually we would have liked to descend somewhere, but here you are on a Höhenweg. The last long descend asked a lot of concentration - this part you will not like when it is wet. However, halfway, the weather suddenly improved indeed. Some sun even returned. The last part was through nice flowers. From the hut we could see a long sequence of valley-tourists coming up. For them the last 300m going up was quiet heavy: the hut seemed so near, but ... In the evening the hut-boss here played some music again. [Walking time: 3.47h]
• Edelweiß Hs (1530m) in Kaisers: via a long descend along the Sulzltal to Stockach in the Lechtal (1070m), a walk along the main road to Holzgau (1103m), a lift to Steeg (1124m), and a final walk along the road to Kaisers in the Almajur Tal.
  This day we made a wrong decision ... We left the hut at 6h in the morning to try to reach the bus of 8.30h in Stockach. The Sulzltal was very silent at that time. It was becoming a beautiful day. The last part of this route went through several dark tunnels where we had to use our lamps. Inside the tunnels the path is not flat, at some places water is found, or after a bend it 'rains' on your head. Sometimes side holes gave nice views to the gorge below you. An interesting walk!
  At 8h we arrived in Stockach where we started to wait for the bus to Lech. However no bus came! After 1.30h waiting we discovered that today was 'Maria Himmelfahrt', which meant that busses were not driving at all that day. Hence we started a long and hot walk to Holzgau (famous by Pepi Strobl), where we got a lift to Steeg. Here a shop was open, which meant breakfast at 11.45h. Lech was to far away this day and the Ferwall even more. Thus we decided to walk to Kaisers and stay the night there in the Edelweiß House. This hut had not the real atmosphere you would expect in a hut: it was a kind of hotel (that you can reach by car), but that also meant that we had a nice shower (periods of 6 minutes). [Walking time: 2.00h (descend)]
• Stuttgarter Ht (2305m): via a beautiful walk through the Almajur Tal, passing Boden (1554m), Erlich Alm (1919m) and along the Kartellboden to the Erli Joch (2430m).
  It was as beautiful as yesterday. We were the only people that left early (at 7.45h, our usual time to leave) and, yes, we got breakfast. We started with a 100m going down to the brook and then a long, nice walk began through that beautiful Almajur Tal, with that nice views to the Valluga (2811m) and to the Weißschrofen Spitze (2752m). At Boden an at Erlich Alm we could get some cold drinks. At the last place we could see walkers going to and coming from the Leutkircher Htt by a path with some interesting parts. Now a hot track followed that brought us to the Erli Joch. From here it was an easy walk to the Stuttgarter Htt. We were regognized again by the hut people and we were some of the last that got a real bed in the Lager. Soon after that, the hut became overcrowded. People were advised to go further and several did so. Two hours later it rained and thunder was quite near. We were lucky to be inside. Later we could see a rainbow. [Walking time: 4.30h]
• Ravensburger Htt (1947m): via Zürs and busses to Lech (1440m) and the Spüller See (1827m).
  It was a wet morning and we waited long for some dry period. We decided to descend to Zürs, quietly and looking to many black salamanders. After some waiting we took the bus to Lech. Here people were shopping and looking to the many beautiful cars. We were surprised when we noted that very frequently busses were going from Lech to the Spüller See and to the Formarin See. Nobody is walking in the Lech Tal anymore! Because it was still raining we also took a bus: a hut is cheaper than a hotel. But it was a strange feeling to come so near to the Ravensburger Htt by bus. The last part was via the Spüller Alpe. It was wet, there was fog, so we were dripping and damping when suddenly the hut was just before us. The hut has a self-service but is still very cosy. [Walking time: 1.30h (descend)]
• Ravensburger Htt [1947m]: A round tour via the Madlochjoch (2438m), Zürs, Lech, Zug and again back by the bus.
  The weather improved. We choose for an easy round tour with only one light backsack. The path to the Madlochjoch was a disaster: the ground was very wet and the cows had destroyed it completely or had left their dung on it. It is a grass-walk 'for only once', just a connection track. However it was very silent and at the joch we saw many 'Gemsen'. Back in Lech we walked along the river to Zug. Here we saw the bus of a Formula 1 team that was hiding here. The last part of our trip was again by bus. [Walking time: 3.29h to Zürs]
• Freiburger Htt (1918m): via Gehrengrat (2439m) and Steinernes Meer.
  The sun was shining brightly and the way to the Gehrengrat was very hot. At the top of the Gehrengrat a large red mark can be seen: indeed that is your goal that you have to reach after quite a steep ascend. From there you have an impressive view to the Rote Wand that looks like a gigantic cathedral. The Steinernes Meer is a labyrinth of white stones and holes over which you have to jump. If you are thirsty it is quite a long part to cross. At the hut we had a nice sunny afternoon. The hut is enormous, has self-service, but still it offers some places where you can sit quietly. [Walking time: 4.50h]
• Göppinger Htt (2245m): via the Freiburger/Göppinger Höhenweg/Steinmayerweg, by the Unteres and the Oberes Johannes Joch (2037m) and the Johannis Scharte.
  The route of today was again very beautiful. The first part to the Johannes Joch was a path through many roots, at the Joch again some Steinernes-Meer-like country had to be crossed. The next part is the most interesting part: the mountain ridge at which sides you have to climb offer some puzzles where your path might be going when seen from a distance. But it is very good marked with laughing faces (a mountain smiley). The ascend was quite steep and hot in the sun and the location of the final Johannis Scharte was quite a surprise. We had nice views.
  At the hut we had to wait for water: the tanks were empty and had to be filled again. The afternoon was a lazy one: we decided to stay and not to descend to Lech that day. Than we could add one final hut to our series of this year on the next day. [Walking time: 4.37h]
• Biberacher Htt (1862m) and the descend to Schröcken: via Gamsboden, Obere Alpschelle (1673m), Untere Alpschelle (1455m) and by the Fürggeleweg to the hut at the Schadinapaß. Via the Laupalpe we descended along the Schandelstobelbach to Schröcken (ca 1200m). By taxi to Lech and a connecting bus we returned to St Anton am Arlberg.
  It was a very long descend that we started this morning. Still above there was some narrow gorge where we had to climb through, but after that it was a tedious descend: long, hot, and with many unpleasant sharp ridged stones (I wounded my head there). At the bottom, in the valley, the altitude is ca 1200m. Some strange bridges help you to cross the brook and then a long hot, and very often quite steep, ascend starts through roots. At one place some careful steps are needed to cross a brook. The little white hut we long thought to be the hut appeared to be a closed farm house. The hut was still farther. But then there were drinks after that long walk. We handed over the blankets, the hut-boss of the Göppinger Htt had asked us to bring to this hut. Thank you, but no free drink ... A little cat smiled at us.
  After this we had to reach the world again. It was hot, thunderclouds were coming, so we descended quite fast to Schröcken, the last part again along the road and through tunnels (with fingers in your ears when cars were passing). We had missed the bus. However, in Schröcken, we managed to get a private taxi to bring us to Lech (for 300 Schilling). In the mean time the thunder and rain came. The cars were driving very slowly. In Lech we had to wait one hour at the Postamt for the connection to St Anton. The only chair is for the old ladies ... In St Anton we again found refuge in Haus Kandahar. This beautiful tour was ended. [Walking time: 4.22h+1.18h]

Some related links

Arlberg Online

St. Anton am Arlberg

ATS Tourist Service - St. Anton am Arlberg

Jan ter Maten's Home Page